Curious about exploring a quieter side of Paris? Join me on a walk through Monceau and Batignolles, two charming neighborhoods brimming with life.
These areas might not be on every tourist map, but having lived here during my early Paris days, they hold a special place in my heart.
So, let’s discover landmarks, parks, unique architecture, and vibrant streets with lugar shops and neighborhood vibes — a true hidden gem.
I’ve also sprinkled in some personal recommendations so you’ll know where to eat and grab a drink along the way.
Salut, I am Lena – Travel Planning Expert and parisienne since 2006 🩷
Although Monceau and Batignolles are off the tourist radar, this walk starts at the iconic Arc de Triomphe.
Wait, what? Lena! I thought this walk was an offbeat route?
It is, but hear me out: the best itineraries are those that are accessible and easily fit into your schedule.
When you’re short on time, traveling to far-off districts isn’t convenient. This Monceau and Batignolles route offers a perfect alternative because it connects two of the most important sights in Paris, which you probably visit anyway: the Arc de Triomphe and Montmartre.
All you need is one or two hours to explore, and you’re ready to discover a Paris that most visitors miss.
So you can turn this walk into a complete itinerary, guiding you from the Arc de Triomphe to Montmartre while uncovering hidden gems along the way.
Also interesting:
Paris off the Beaten Path: Monceau and Batignolles
This walk takes you through a part of Paris that transitions from the luxury and upscale vibe of the Arc de Triomphe area to a more residential setting.
While still elegant and home to embassies, you’ll notice a shift as you cross Monceau and Batignolles. The city’s character changes—so do the people, shops, restaurants, and even prices. It’s striking how much can vary over just 3 km.
#1 Arc de Triomphe de l’Étoile
Next to the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe is one of those Paris landmarks that’s impossible to miss.
Standing at the top of the Champs-Élysées, on Place Charles de Gaulle-Étoile, it forms part of the Historic Axis.
This line of landmarks stretches from the Grande Arche in La Défense through Place de la Concorde, the Tuileries Garden, and finishes at the Louvre. The axis was designed intentionally, creating a monumental path through Paris.
Also read: 35 fascinating Facts about the Arc de Triomphe
The monument got inaugurated in 1836 and honors those who fought and died for France during the French Revolutions and the Napoleonic Wars.
Beneath the Arc de Triomphe lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, honoring those who died in World War I. The eternal flame burns continuously in their memory.
Each year, on Armistice Day (November 11th), a ceremony is held to commemorate all those who died in combat, particularly the unidentified.
You might also like: Paris hidden gems – 75 secret tips
Tips for Visiting the Arc de Triomphe
If you want to visit the Arc de Triomphe up close, don’t cross the roundabout!
There’s an underground passage that can be tricky to find depending on where you’re arriving from. The access by Metro is direct, but if you come on foot, look for it on the right-hand sidewalk of the Champs-Élysées, at the corner of Avenue de Friedland.
Pro Tip 1: It opens at 10 AM, so don’t arrive too early.
Pro Tip 2: Book tickets online to avoid the queues.
The rooftop terrace, offering stunning views, is accessible only by stairs—lots of them!
However, if you have reduced mobility or are with a small child, they’ll allow you to use the elevator, though it’s not available to everyone due to its small size.
#2 Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
The Russian Orthodox Cathedral in 12 rue Daru was the first orthodox place of worship in France, consecrated in 1861. Though enclosed by a fence, if the gates are open, take a stroll.
At my last visit, I was surprised to find a little vegetable garden at the back of the cathedral. Adorable, and in a stark contrast to the imposing architecture.
Fun Fact: Pablo Picasso married his first wife, Olga Khokhlova, in the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, making it a site with artistic history as well.
Tip: The cathedral is open only Tuesdays, Fridays, and Sundays from 15 to 17h
#3 La Maison Loo
Adjacent to Parc Monceau stands one of Paris’s most fascinating buildings: the Chinese Pagoda of Mr. Ching Tsai Loo.
In 1925, Mr. Loo, a renowned collector of Chinese and Asian art, transformed this former hôtel particulier into a Pagoda, both inside and out. It served as a gallery for his art collection.
Today, La Maison Loo hosts private and professional events, photo shoots, and conferences, blending history and culture in a unique setting.
#4 Parc Monceau
What are the odds! Parc Monceau fits beautifully into the Parisian landscape, and it’s no coincidence.
It was the first public park designed by Baron Haussmann, who shaped modern Paris in the 19th century. It’s thanks to him that we walk today on the typical Parisian Boulevards, that are iconic for the city.
So it is not surprising, that Parc Monceau is just as stunning as the rest of Haussmann’s work
The park not only features lush green spaces, but also Corinthian pillars, a small Egyptian pyramid, and a Venetian bridge, alongside various statues. These elements create a beautiful blend of elegance and whimsy, making Parc Monceau truly unique among Parisian parks.
Between the Arc de Triomphe and Parc Monceau, the area is wealthy, filled with embassies and upscale homes.
A morning visit reveals personal trainers at work, hinting at the neighborhood’s affluence. The park also offers playgrounds, a merry-go-round, and even free Wi-Fi, which is rare in Paris.
#5 Rue de Lévis
As you leave the luxury of Parc Monceau behind, Rue de Lévis welcomes you into a more residential and authentic Parisian experience.
This bustling food street, less touristy than Rue de Cler or Rue Mouffetard, is perfect for neighborhood shopping.
It’s lined with delis, butchers, bakeries, and fresh produce stalls, making it an ideal spot for locals to pick up daily essentials—or even grab a roasted chicken for lunch.
The vibe is lively and distinctly Parisian without the heavy tourist foot traffic.
Foodies: don’t miss these spots:
- Yann Couvreur Legendre ( 25 Rue Legendre) for pâtisserie & croissants
- Laura Todd ( 41 Rue de Lévis) for some of the best cookies
- À la Mère e Famillie ( 58 Rue de Lévis) for chocolates
- Poilâne ( 39 Rue de Lévis) for bread & pastries
#6 Parc de Batignolles
Not far from Rue de Lévis, a 10 to 15-minute walk brings you to the charming Parc de Batignolles.
Entering just after crossing the impressive rail tracks leading to St. Lazare, you’ll find a serene English-style garden with a duck pond, small waterfall, and vibrant flowers, making it perfect for a peaceful retreat or a little lunch break. Maybe to savor some of the treats you got at Rue Lévis?
However, if you have a bit more time at hand, you can also venture further to the nearby Parc Martin Luther King. It offers a contrasting experience with its modern, industrial vibe.
This park showcases a different side of Paris, blending urban design with green spaces—great for seeing the city’s evolving landscape.
Also read this article: The best Parks in Paris – 13 beautiful gardens you need to visit!
When leaving the Parc de Batignolles through the main entrance, you’ll immediately notice the neighborhood’s charm: cozy little restaurants, trendy boutiques, and inviting cafés.
It’s one of the few places in Paris where you can enjoy a peaceful, resident-focused atmosphere, perfect for unwinding and exploring without the hustle of crowded tourist spots.
Restaurants & Bars Recommendations
- Tonton des Dames (94 Rue des Dames) – for Steak Tartare, Terrines, Andouillette….
- Mamma Primi (18 Rue Boursault) – Pizza, Pasta, Risotto
- Melt (83 Rue Legendre) – Meat & BBQ
- Les p’tits potes (33 Rue des Dames) – Wine Bar
But don’t mistake the shops for budget friendly insider tips. While the Batignolles area may not feature luxury brands like Givenchy or Dior, it’s certainly not a spot for bargain shopping either.
They cater to an upscale crowd because let’s be honest, Batignolles is still Paris and one of the prime locations for residential city life.
Monceau Batignolles: What’s next?
For a lugar experience and to make the most of your time here, take a zigzag walk toward Place de Clichy, following Rue Legendre or Rue des Dames.
Along the way, you’ll stumble upon hidden gems like the Marché de Batignolles, a charming covered market near Brochant Metro. It’s the perfect spot to grab fresh produce or gourmet bites.
And then? From Place de Clichy it’s one a stone’s throw away from Montmartre. Check out our full guide to Montmartre for more tips on exploring this iconic Parisian neighborhood.
Enjoy!
Parisienne since 2006 🩷
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